The Trek Highlights a Stark Truth: Without Porters, the Industry Would Collapse, Yet These Men Often Vanish From Climbers' Success Stories

Rod Ardehali joins a 12-person trek to Everest Base Camp, where the thrill of the Himalayas collides with the region's mounting problems: summit overcrowding, plastic pollution, and the overlooked porters who make expeditions possible. The journey begins with a short flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, whose 527m runway is the world's shortest and the gateway to the Khumbu Valley. The group, traveling with tour company Intrepid, is led by 32-year-old climber Sumitra, supported by two assistants and six porters who carry excess baggage ahead of the trekkers.

The 120km route spans 12 days, from Phakding (2,610m) through Phortse (3,810m), Dingboche (4,410m), and Gorak Shep (5,160m), ending at Everest Base Camp (5,364m). At Namche Bazaar (3,440m), a former trading post now offering climbing gear and international cuisine, Sumitra points out Everest (8,849m), Nuptse (7,861m), and Thamserku (6,608m). The trek highlights a stark truth: without porters, the industry would collapse, yet these men often vanish from climbers' success stories.

"This isn’t even the busy season yet. If you go to Base Camp in spring you see green carpets, fancy tables, TVs, refrigerators, big heaters. You can get anything you’re willing to pay for. It used to be an adventure, but now it’s become a luxury for people with lots of money."